The serene statues of the founders and the exquisite friezes with botanically accurate depictions of
The serene statues of the founders and the exquisite friezes with botanically accurate depictions of plants, flowers and fruits are all unlike any other carvings of their time, anticipating the far-off Renaissance and Reformation.Strangest BuildingThe Junkerhaus in Lemgo, the single-handed creation of a totally eccentric 19th-century architect, painter and sculptor, offers a bizarre variant on the normal concept of a “dream home”. However, the piece de resistance is the gargantuan breakfast buffet, an assault on which is guaranteed to ward off hunger pangs until well into the afternoon.Favourite ChurchThe Dom (Cathedral) in Naumburg is the product of the most innovative masonic workshop of the European Middle Ages. Its exterior is a fine example of the German penchant for aggressively picturesque architectural effects, but it is primarily the sculptural decoration of the interior which makes the building so extraordinary. Like so many of the best German hostelries, it is of modest size and family-run.
The restaurant serves a good selection of locally-produced wines (which are hard to obtain outside Germany) and regional dishes (including a couple from its own recipe book of 1850). The most extreme example of this is Carnival in Cologne, which is celebrated with a verve worthy of Nice or Cadiz, if not Rio. For several days, normal life in this great media and commercial metropolis comes to a standstill as everyone dons make-up and costume to join in the non-stop fun and revelry.Favourite Hotel”Zur Stadt Mainz” in Wurzburg is a Gasthof (inn) with a pedigree stretching back to the 15th century, though there’s certainly nothing antiquated about its bedrooms. It’s therefore always a surprise to see them switching to a wholly different mode – as they do en masse whenever there’s a big festival on.
Even a single traveller can normally recoup the cost of making a return journey from one city to the next; those in search of bargains will find it the cheapest possible way of travelling from Denmark to Austria or Belgium to Poland.Biggest SurpriseThe Germans justifiably have a reputation for being a serious, hard-working and formal people. On departing Spain you will be obliged to join the hordes wrestling their way aboard clutching everything from chickens to contraband whisky. On arrival in Morocco you will be tormented by relentless Tangier hustlers. But aboard ship you can enjoy a window of perfect tranquillity with a few glasses of cheap Spanish pseudo-champagne There are at least eight ferries to Tangier each day.. Best Discovery
Eastern Germany boasts many splendid historic towns which are little- known and seldom visited. There was even a “Cellulite Seminar” on one afternoon.I managed to avoid the daily bingo sessions and the afternoon napkin folding classes and I decided I wouldn’t be able to contribute a great deal to the grannies’ sherry get togethers to which the official ship’s programme urged participants to bring along photographs to share.On every voyage, a different well-known personality or author gives a series of lectures in the main theatre; the cinema has a good selection of the latest releases, and the live entertainment on my crossing ranged from classical piano concerts to Sixties rock group Wayne Fontana and the Mindbenders who now wear cowboy hats to cover up their bald patches.There are also lively karaoke sessions in the Golden Lion pub after dinner and a traditional jazz band turns up in various bars throughout the day.
Among these, Tangermunde is particularly intriguing; it’s a provincial place with a population of 11,000 which served for a brief period in the 14th century as the joint capital of Germany. It preserves all the main landmarks of its heyday, notably an ornate brickwork Rathaus (Town Hall), and a virtually complete set of walls guarded by giant gateways and towers.
Best BargainFor DM35 (pounds 12), the Schones-Wochenend-Ticket allows up to five people travelling together to make unlimited use of local and regional trains anywhere within the national network for the duration of a weekend. On this 500km journey the riverbanks are lined with thick jungle, full of colourful birds, and only breached by occasional Indian villages and settlers’ ports. Travelling “hammock class” in an eight-berth cabin is one way to get to know the locals. Several boats a day make the two-day journey.Algeciras to Tangier for pounds 12One of the most stressful – but romantic – ways to cross from Europe to Africa is by sea.