But the fact is nothing much is going to happen until dusk
But the fact is, nothing much is going to happen until dusk.When evening falls the transformation is exhilarating Suddenly the streets are packed. The harbour – a forest of masts, now that the boats have returned – is ablaze with lights and lanterns and has become a hawkers’ convention of competing yells as boat crews drum up trade for tomorrow’s excursions. Vendors have set up charcoal burners to roast chunks of corn on the cob. And the shops and stalls, so shabby by daylight, have become oriental treasure troves.
Swathes of silver chains glitter under the loops of coloured lights that festoon the town’s balconies and terraces. Entire rolls of carpets in vivid reds and greens are unfurled across the cobbled streets or draped across Ottoman balconies.Every other roof-top houses a restaurant or bar. All have magical views over the harbour and across to the mosque, barely noticeable by day but a fairy castle in the moonlight. Music from the various bars clashes amicably in the night air – discreet baroque strings from the Blue House through to pulsating reggae from the Banana Bar. Our favourite restaurant turns out to be Eris, just back from the main square.
It was founded in 1955 by a man named Ali – a former butcher, baker and purveyor of camel sausages – and is now run by his son, Yusuf. In the 16th century, the chefs of the court of Suleyman the Magnificent knew 150 different ways of preparing aubergines. Here in Kas, in the third millennium, we settle happily for five or six. GETTING THERELinda Cookson travelled to Kas with Tapestry Holidays (020-8235 7888; ), which offers a range of villa and hotel options on the Kas peninsula and (to a rather more sophisticated standard) in nearby Kalkan. A week for two people sharing hotel accommodation in the area costs around £650 per person, including return flights from London or Manchester to Dalaman airport Kas is about two-and-a-half hours from the airport.
TRAVELLER’S GUIDETurkey is vast, but it has an excellent public transport network. Buses range from the shiny, new air-conditioned type to battered wrecks. There is also a modest rail network and a good range of domestic flights.BUSTurkey’s roads are notoriously poor, so most locals prefer buses for long-distance journeys – and a fiercely competitive market has developed to serve them. You might be used to minimalist British coaches, but in Turkey you are likely to receive tea, coffee, water, biscuits, air-conditioning, movies and even a tuxedo-clad steward dispensing a refreshing hand-wash at regular intervals.The bus station, or otogar, is often on the outskirts of town, which can be reached by a local bus (dolmus).