At one stage two of them become so wrapped up in their play- wrestling that they roll down a
At one stage, two of them become so wrapped up in their play- wrestling that they roll down a steep, grassy bank, still entwined in one big furry ball.Less appealing, but no less astonishing, is the sight of the newborn panda cub in the sanctuary’s incubator: 14 hours old, 5in long and looking like a pink Moomintroll. Suddenly, though, a cry goes up in another part of the 60-acre site, and word spreads like wildfire through the bamboo. There are other pandas out and about – and what’s more, they’re awake!
Five sweaty minutes later, we arrive, panting, at a hilltop enclosure, where not just one young panda is in action, but four. For an ugly few minutes this much-anticipated highlight of our 14-day trans-China family tour looks like being more damp squib than firecracker.
And when you’re wearing a thick fur coat, like the pandas are, you just don’t really feel like being active. It’s always the way. You travel 5,000 miles to see a live panda bear, and when you actually get to see one, he’s lying flat on his face, not moving “Is he dead?” asks my 11-year-old son “No, sleeping,” I reply. “Just our luck.” It may only be 7.30am here, at the world’s biggest panda sanctuary, just outside Chengdu, in western China, but already the temperature is creeping up into the high 30s, with humidity to match. Doubles from $149 (£83), incl breakfast.WINERIES Harbinger Winery, 2358 Highway 101 W, Port Angeles (001 360 452 4262; www.harbingerwinery ).Olympic Cellars, 255410 Highway 101 E, Sequim (001 360 452 0160; www.olympiccellars ).Domaine Drouhin, 6750 Breyman Orchards Road, Dayton (001 503 864 2700; www.domainedrouhin ).Hip Chicks Do Wine, 4510 SE 23rd Avenue, Portland (001 503 234 3790; www.hipchicksdowine ).MORE INFORMATION Washington State Tourism (001 800 544 1800; www.experiencewashington ).Portland Oregon Visitors Association (001 503 275 8355; www.travelportland ).. Campgrounds from $10 (£5.60).The Westin, 750 SW Alder Street, Portland (001 503 294 9000; www.westin ).
The Gals Just Want To Have Wine weekend packages start at $230 (£128) for two.Red Caboose Getaway, 24 Old Coyote Way, Sequim (001 360 683 7350; www.redcaboosegetaway ). Cabooses start at $100 (£56).Olympic National Park campsites, Olympic Peninsula (001 360 565 3100; www.nps.gov/olym). The author flew with United (0845 8444 777; www.unitedairlines.co.uk) via San Francisco.GETTING AROUNDAmtrak (001 800 872 7245; www.amtrak ) round-trip fares between Seattle and Portland start at $56 (£31).STAYING THEREHotel Vintage Park, 1100 Fifth Avenue, Seattle (001 206 624 8000; www.hotelvintagepark ). And no, the name and the pink logos, the Vin Nombril (Belly Button Wine) and Riot Girl Rose don’t seem to faze the guys.

