And for the more self-indulgent there’s griddled squid with Judion bean and merguez sausage casserole or lamb’s kidneys

And for the more self-indulgent, there’s griddled squid with Judion bean and merguez sausage casserole, or lamb’s kidneys with black pudding bubble and squeak and mustard sauce.Oysters are from the Butley Oysterage, of course. We started with a decorous half-dozen of them, their long, creamy finish spiced up with an oriental dipping vinegar, and the surprisingly successful addition of two densely textured sausage patties. A single, elegant crab cake, sporting a crust of almost Platonic crispness, was gently spiced with red and green chillis, and served with wafer-thin cucumber strips in a citrus vinaigrette, and a guacamole-style mayonnaise of avocado and coriander.A main course of seized cod (the “seized” refers to the brief cooking time, rather than the method by which the chef obtained it) was tender to the point of milkiness; beneath it oozed a rich, golden disc of saffron and garlic mash. Chicken breast, from local free-range supplier Charlie Nash, was pan-fried and served in a meaty sauce lent texture by whole-wheat grains and tiny broad beans.The dark, syrupy smell of a pleasantly un-sweet treacle tart hit the nose almost before the dish was out of the kitchen. Together with cheese, coffee and a £13 bottle of wine from the well-chosen list, it brought our bill to a very reasonable £30 a head.It’s a tribute to the new owners of the Crown and Castle that local drinkers haven’t been driven out of its bar by the introduction of gastronomy and copies of Nova magazine. We joined a knot of weather-beaten old boys for a nightcap, and were riveted by their discussion of “leek moth” and other allotment-related problems.

From the variety of vegetables under discussion, it sounds like Ruth Watson will need to look no further when it comes to drawing up next season’s menu.Needless to say, I’ll definitely be returning to sample it. The combination of great food, welcoming hosts and those big, Suffolk skies is just too seductive to resist.The Crown and Castle, Orford, nr Woodbridge, Suffolk (01394 450205) Food and drink served seven days a week, 11am-5pm, 7-9.30pm Limited disabled access All cards except Amex and Diners Club. Froize Inn, The Street, Chillesford, Suffolk (01394 450282) Tue-Sun lunch and dinner. First impressions of a smart but not remarkable pub would be short of the mark, for this has a reputation for exceptional food, especially fantastic fish caught only a few miles away. There could be cod from Orford cooked Italian style, sea trout, Dover sole, haddock, skate and lobsters And sizzling beef for those who must have meat Main courses served by French staff are £10-£18.

Bar snacks from £7 are along the lines of cod and chips and fish pie. Desserts: summer pudding, ginger and pear crÿme brûlée or spotted dick. Froize Inn, The Street, Chillesford, Suffolk (01394 450282) Tue-Sun lunch and dinner. First impressions of a smart but not remarkable pub would be short of the mark, for this has a reputation for exceptional food, especially fantastic fish caught only a few miles away. There could be cod from Orford cooked Italian style, sea trout, Dover sole, haddock, skate and lobsters And sizzling beef for those who must have meat Main courses served by French staff are £10-£18. Bar snacks from £7 are along the lines of cod and chips and fish pie. Desserts: summer pudding, ginger and pear crÿme brûlée or spotted dick.
Theobald’s Restaurant, 68 High Street, Ixworth (01359 231707) Tue-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch.